REMOVING A TOILET AND TANK

1) Turn off the water at the tanksupply valve or the main shutoff valve to the house. Flush the toilet so the tank is emptied. It will be necessary to hold open the ballcock to darain as much water as possible.

There will be some water in the tank which will have to be cleaned out with a sponge. A songe will also be required to mop up any water in the toilet bowl.

2) If the nuts won't come out, insert a bare hacksaw blade between the bottom of the toilet and the top of the floor and saw the bolts through with the blade. The metal is soft and the job will go quickly. However, be careful not to damage the flooring material with the blade.

3) Floor-mounted bowls use hold-down bolts and wall mounted bowls use hanger or mounting bolts. With your helper, lift the toilet up off the hanger or hold-down bolts and place it on a stack of newspapers or an old blanket or a rug. stuff a rag i n the closet bend to stop sewer gases from entering the room. Remember that both the toilet bowl and tank are porcelain, a form of glass, and are fragile.  The toilet can chip or crack if not handled gently. If you have any doubt about handling the unit, remove the tank first from the bowl and then the bowl itself. It makes a less bulky package with which to work.

4) Turn the bowl so you can remove the old wax ring or plumber's putty. Then install a new wax ring.

The ring is available at most home center stores; one size fits all. Use the wax ring instead of plumber's putty.

5) Position the toilet tank over the hangers or hold-down bolts (use new ones if you had to cut the old ones) and gently lower the bowl down on the bolts. This is critical: The toilet must be set absolutely straight down on the bolts and wax ring. You have to get over the center of the bowl to control it's downward angle. Have your helper guide the bowl onto the bolts. If the wax ring is not crushed straight down, it will have to be replaced with a new one. Once improperly crushed, the wax ring cannot be used again.

6) Press the bowl down on the hanger or hold-down bolts so the bowl is about level. The replace the nuts on the bolts and turn them gently but firmly, so the toilet bowl is pulled down flush with the floor.

    Whether you have plastic or cast-iron drain lines, the toilet will be fastened with bolts that fit into slots in the closet flange at the top of the drain. The flange is fastened to the floor(wooden) with wood screws

(Fig 7)

The square-headed bolts fit in the cuurved slots  in the flange and thus are prevented from turning when you install or remove the nuts that hold down the bowl. The same wax ring is used for a toilet set on plastic pipe as for ones on cast-iron or copper pipe. The hold-down nuts are turned gently but firmly to pull the bowl flush with the floor. However, do not turn the bolts too much because you can crack the porcelain  of the bowl. While you have the toilet bowl off the floor, check for water stains between the tank and the toilet that would indicate a water leak. If there are such stains, unbolt the tank and replace the gaskets between the tank and the toilet as explained above. It is much easier to do this while the toilet is inverted since the nuts that hold the tank to the toilet are under the back flange of the toilet.

LEAKING TOILET BOWLS

A leaking bowl can be caused by one of several problems. Go down this checklist for symptoms and repairs:
* Is the water on the floor caused by moisture condensation(sweating) of the flush tank or, sometimes the toilet bowl?
If so, you can cover the flush tank with a jacket made especially for this purpose. Or you can line the inside of the tank with insulation. You can buy kits of material to install inside the tank. But is less expensive to use sheets of foam rubber or foam plastic and glue them  inside the tank. First, drain the tank(after shutting off the water) then mop the inside of the tank completely dry with a sponge. To adhere the liner, use one of the rubber-based exterior construction adhesives that is compatible with the rigid plastic or foam rubber. These glues are sold in cartridges to fit caulking guns.
* Is the small water-supply pipe to the flush tank leaking either at the shutoff valve or at the botton of the ballcock assembly on the bottom(outside0 of the tank?
If so, try tighting this connection with an adjustable wrench. Be careful; don't apply to much turning pressure with the wrench. If this pipe has to be replaced, consider using a flexible braided water supply line. It doesn't have to be bent as does a solid pipe and its compression fittings don't have to be sealed with teflon tape or joint compound as does solid pipes. Furthermore, once tightened the fittings are virtually leakproof.

* Is the flush tank leaking where it joins the top of the toilet bowl?
There is usually a rubber gasket at this junction. Sometimes pressure on the flush tank from leaning backward against it causes the hold-down bolts and this gasket to loosen and leak. Try tighting the bolts from within the tank. If the rubber washer is the trouble, you will have to remove the flush tank from the toilet bowl to replace it.
* Is the bowl leaking around its botton rim, which sets on the floor?
First, try tighting the bolts that hold the bowl to the floor. You will probably have to remove the porcelain caps that cover the bolts. (Fig6). Just pry them up and off with the tip of a screwdriver.

You must be careful. Caps can be easily damaged. Then with an adjustable wrench or screwdriver, turn down the bolts one or two complete turns,. Give each bolt the same number of turns. * Is the wax ring sealbetween the drain pipe and the toilet bowl leaking?
  If the hold-down Bolts are tight and the leak is still there, chances are the wax ring seal is warn and needs replacement. In most cases, you don't need to remove the tank from the bowl. You do have to remove the tank and bowl from the floor or wall and then replace it again. You must be careful; I recommend that you enlist the aid of a helper.

BLOCKED DRAIN PIPES

A completely clogged bowl will not respond to the suction cup treatment. Do not attempt to keep flushing the toilet to remove the blockage. do not under any circumstances pour chemical drain cleaner into the bowl.
The problem that exists here is probably a blocked drain pipe below the trap of the toilet(Fig 2)

You have three options
* Remove the toilet bowl and auger the drain pipe.
* Find the clean-out port at the botton of the vent stack to this drain, open the port, and auger the pipe.
* My suggestion: Call the pro. The blockage could be in the pipe that runs from your home to the sewer or septic tank. The equipment necessary to clear this blockage is very costly to buy.

Books

HELP WITH TOILETS

UNCLOGGING TOILET BOWL:

Using a Plunger,
Insert the plunger into the botton of the bowl. Get directly over the suction cup handle so you will have maximum force.Now, work the plunger up and down very hard and quickly, keeping the suction cup down in the bottom of the bowl. Keep it positioned; don't lift it up out of the toilet as you work it. Give the plunger about 50 hard plunges before you stop.
The vacuum action of the suction cup should loosen any debris partly blocking the drain/trap. Try flushing the toilet once again. If the toilet still does not work normally, use a closet auger.

Augering the Toilet,
1) Get a large bucket or a large wastebasket that doesn't leak; a large plastic garbage bag; a tin can or something to remove water from the bowl; a closet auger with a corkscrew end(or a straightened out coat hanger with a hook on the end of the wire; a plunger; and a short piece of string- about 2 feet
2) Position the bucket/basket near the bowl, along with the dipper. Cover your arm and hand with the plastic garbage bag and tie the bag at or above the elbow. The bag will protect your hand and arm from the mess in the bowl.
3) With the tin can, dip as much of the mess as possible from the bowl and into the bucket/basket.
4) Push the closet auger down through the bottom of the bowl into the toilet trap(Fig1) shows how the auger fits into the drain/trap passageway. Turn or crank the auger until it snags the debris that is clogging the trap. Pull this debris out; do not force it through the trap into the main drain pipe.

If you don't have a closet auger, a bent-out section of a wire coat hanger with a small hook on one end may work, especially if the debris is a washcloth, towel, or object that isn't far into the drain/trap opening.
With the object removed, flush the toilet. The bowl should now operate normally, However, if you only get a partial flush, use the plunger

REPLACING/ADDING GFCI BREAKERS

if your home isn't equipped with ground fault circuit interrupter(GFCI) circuit breakers, their installation is well worth considering when you plan to upgrade electrical service. Not only do they provide the same safty overcurrent protection as a standard circuit breaker but they also protect against the hazardous effects of certain kinds of ground faults that can cause eletric shock. By code the GFCI must be installed in new homes in a circuit in the areas where a ground fault is a possible hazard. Water, for example, is a potential hazard, as is a wet or damp floor. GFCI's are required for receptacles installed on kitchen, bathroom, unfinished basement, outdoor,and garage electrical circuits.

GFCI's compare the amount of current entering a fixture on the black wire with the amount leaving on the neutral wire. Any descrepancy indicates leaking in the system. If the GFCI detects discrepancy, it breaks the current in 1/40 second, fast enough to prevent serious and sometimes fatal shock. There are three types of GFCI's (Fig 5):
* Direct-wired GFCI receptacles can be installed in place of individual receptacles and offer the same ground fault protection as circuit breaker GFCI's. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for installation and test carefully.
* Circuit breaker/GFCI's offer the same overcurrent protection as standard circuit breakers, plus protection against the hazardous effects of ground faults.
* Plug-in or portable GFCIs provide fault protection whenever it is needed. These devices are simply plugged into any 15 or 20 amp, 120 volt AC receptacle.

Installation of GFCI Circuit Breaker:
1) Remove the old breaker (use steps from previous article)
2) Switch the GFCI breaker OFF and connect the white pigtail wire to a terminal on the neutral bus bar.
3) Plug the breaker in the mounting chassis.
4) Identify the white neutral wire on the circuit you're working with. Connect it to the breaker terminal marked "load neutral." Connect the black wire to the breaker terminal lug marked "load power".
5) Replace the panel cover, switch ON the main breaker, then switch ON the GFCI breaker.
6) With the GFCI ON, push the "push to test" button. If a handle moves to the trip position and the power to the circuit goes OFF, the GFCI is working properly.
7) To reset the GFCI, pust the handle to the extreme OFF position, then turn ON. Then test the circuit with a voltage tester.

FYI
If a GFCI breaker trips, it could be caused by a short circuit or an overload circuit or due to a leakage path to ground. If it tripped while you were using a tool or appliance, that tool or appliance is most likely to be the trouble source. Unplug it, reset the GFCI and test the circuit. If the GFCI device remains ON, do not use the tool or appliance until it has been professionally repaired.
If the GFCI does not remain ON, unplug all loads on the circuit one at a time, resetting the GFCI and testing the circuit each time. If you locate the trouble source this way do not use the lamp, tool or appliance until it has been professionally repaired. If you have not located the trouble, your wiring system may be leaking to ground or misconnected, and should be checked by a licensed electrican.
GFCIs should be tested every month or so. You can do this by pushing the button marked "test." The test button will activate or trip the reset button to show that the device is working. Then pust the reset.

NOTE:
 GFCI devices will trip immediately if the neutral wire of it's load circuit touches or connects to ground or the neutral wire of another circuit. That means that a 120 volt GFCI cannot be used on one circuit that is part of a"multiwire" circuit- one that uses a cable with one black, one white, and one red conductor to carry two circuits.

REPLACING A FAULTY CIRCUIT BREAKER

1) Turn OFF the power at the main power shutoff. Stand on a dry board or rubber mat as you disconnect the power and work on the replacement breaker
2) Remove the cover panel from the circuit breaker box. It is held with screws that turn counterclockwise. Once the panel is removed, check with a voltmeter to make sure the power is off. Be careful to avoid contact with the supply wires connected to the main power shutoff. They are still hot.
3) Switch the handle on the circuit breaker you're replacing to the OFF position.
4) Remove the damaged breaker. The breaker simply pulls out of it's slot in the box. The breaker may be the type that is bolted to the bus bar.

5) Loosen the screw terminals and remove the wires. A single-pole breaker will have one wire attached (usually black). A double-pole breaker will have two wires attached (usually black and red, or black and white).A tandem, or "piggyback" breaker will have twice as many wires attached, since it squeezes two circuits in the space of one.
6) Loosen the binding screws on the new breaker, be sure the handle is in the OFF position.
7) Place the load wire in the terminal lug and tighten securely.
8) Grip the new breaker as shown in fig.4 and plug it firmly onto the mounting base and the bus bar. If it's the type that is bolted in place, bolt it down. Check to make sure the terminal lug is still tight on the wire.
9) Replace the cover panel and switch the main power shut-off ON and the new breaker ON. Test the circuit with a voltmeter.

Adding a New Circuit Breaker
Before adding a new breaker for a new circuit, check with local authorities regarding any special requirements in your jurisdiction, including any necessary permits.
1) Turn OFF thhe power at the main power shutoff. Be careful to avoid contact with the supply wires connected to the main power shutoff. They are always Hot.
2) Remove the knockout in the breaker box for the new breaker. In the side of the box, knock out the circle of metal matching the new breaker location so the cable you are using may be connected properly.
3) Strip the cable insulation to allow enough wire for the connection to the neutral bus bar and the new circuit breaker. Connect the cable to the box with the proper fitting for this.
4) Run the ground wire and the white neutral of the cable to the neutral bus bar when installing in the service panel (Fig 3). Connect to the separate ground and neutral bars, if in a sub panel.

5) Attach the red and/or black wire to the new circuit breaker. Double-pole breakers for 120/240 volt circuits are normally connected with a red and black wire; for straight 240 volt circuits, with a black and white wire;and singlr-pole breakers(in most installations) are connected with just the black wire. Then clip(or bolt) the breaker to one of the box's HOT bus bars.
If the breaker is a double-pole unit, it will take up two spaces in the breaker box . Both wires are considered power wires, and they are fastened to the breaker(Fig 3). The ground wire only is connected to the ground/neutral bus bar. Combination 120/240 breakers use the very same type of double-pole breakers. Here, the white wire is connected to the neutral bus bar.