REPLACING/ADDING GFCI BREAKERS

if your home isn't equipped with ground fault circuit interrupter(GFCI) circuit breakers, their installation is well worth considering when you plan to upgrade electrical service. Not only do they provide the same safty overcurrent protection as a standard circuit breaker but they also protect against the hazardous effects of certain kinds of ground faults that can cause eletric shock. By code the GFCI must be installed in new homes in a circuit in the areas where a ground fault is a possible hazard. Water, for example, is a potential hazard, as is a wet or damp floor. GFCI's are required for receptacles installed on kitchen, bathroom, unfinished basement, outdoor,and garage electrical circuits.

GFCI's compare the amount of current entering a fixture on the black wire with the amount leaving on the neutral wire. Any descrepancy indicates leaking in the system. If the GFCI detects discrepancy, it breaks the current in 1/40 second, fast enough to prevent serious and sometimes fatal shock. There are three types of GFCI's (Fig 5):
* Direct-wired GFCI receptacles can be installed in place of individual receptacles and offer the same ground fault protection as circuit breaker GFCI's. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for installation and test carefully.
* Circuit breaker/GFCI's offer the same overcurrent protection as standard circuit breakers, plus protection against the hazardous effects of ground faults.
* Plug-in or portable GFCIs provide fault protection whenever it is needed. These devices are simply plugged into any 15 or 20 amp, 120 volt AC receptacle.

Installation of GFCI Circuit Breaker:
1) Remove the old breaker (use steps from previous article)
2) Switch the GFCI breaker OFF and connect the white pigtail wire to a terminal on the neutral bus bar.
3) Plug the breaker in the mounting chassis.
4) Identify the white neutral wire on the circuit you're working with. Connect it to the breaker terminal marked "load neutral." Connect the black wire to the breaker terminal lug marked "load power".
5) Replace the panel cover, switch ON the main breaker, then switch ON the GFCI breaker.
6) With the GFCI ON, push the "push to test" button. If a handle moves to the trip position and the power to the circuit goes OFF, the GFCI is working properly.
7) To reset the GFCI, pust the handle to the extreme OFF position, then turn ON. Then test the circuit with a voltage tester.

FYI
If a GFCI breaker trips, it could be caused by a short circuit or an overload circuit or due to a leakage path to ground. If it tripped while you were using a tool or appliance, that tool or appliance is most likely to be the trouble source. Unplug it, reset the GFCI and test the circuit. If the GFCI device remains ON, do not use the tool or appliance until it has been professionally repaired.
If the GFCI does not remain ON, unplug all loads on the circuit one at a time, resetting the GFCI and testing the circuit each time. If you locate the trouble source this way do not use the lamp, tool or appliance until it has been professionally repaired. If you have not located the trouble, your wiring system may be leaking to ground or misconnected, and should be checked by a licensed electrican.
GFCIs should be tested every month or so. You can do this by pushing the button marked "test." The test button will activate or trip the reset button to show that the device is working. Then pust the reset.

NOTE:
 GFCI devices will trip immediately if the neutral wire of it's load circuit touches or connects to ground or the neutral wire of another circuit. That means that a 120 volt GFCI cannot be used on one circuit that is part of a"multiwire" circuit- one that uses a cable with one black, one white, and one red conductor to carry two circuits.